The udon (and tagines) of Oumi Sasaya for the L.A. Times:
PHOTO by STEFANO PALTERA / L.A. TIMES
A queue of naked noodles waits to be dressed with delicate daikon sprouts, quivering poached eggs and oil-slicked strips of blackened bell pepper. Ingredients are plucked from bowls, plates, bottles and jars and laid onto the loose nests of udon, each shard of seaweed and ring of green onion in its right place. Lomita’s Oumi Sasaya is a noodle house of seemingly effortless elegance, minimalism maximized to the fullest.
It’s a feat achieved in the details. Here, waitresses pour pitchers of broth with one hand guarding against even the smallest splash, and hourglasses accompany orders of hot sake, which aren’t to be sipped until the last grain of sand tumbles down to the dune below. The restaurant is dedicated to these simple rituals of service that reflect its meticulous Kansai-style noodling.
Read the rest here.